A Quick Guide to Skincare Peels
When it comes to rejuvenating the skin, few treatments are as transformative as a professional peel. Whether targeting fine lines, acne scars, hyperpigmentation, or just looking to get that glow, peels are a powerhouse treatment in the esthetician’s toolkit. Let’s dive into what makes professional peels so effective, explore different types of peels, and discuss safe, gentle at-home options for those in-between visits.
What Are Peels and Why Do They Work?
Peels are solutions applied to the skin to gently exfoliate and encourage cell turnover. They work by removing the outermost layers of dead or damaged skin cells, helping reveal smoother, more radiant skin underneath. This controlled exfoliation stimulates collagen production and improves skin texture, which is key for reducing fine lines, evening skin tone, treating acne, and helping with acne scars, i.e., post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation or (PIH.)
Because different peels have different strengths and active ingredients, they can be customized to address specific skin concerns. Here’s a look at some of the most common types of peels offered by estheticians.
Types of Professional Peels and Their Benefits
1. Enzyme Peels
Enzyme peels are gentle, typically using fruit enzymes from papaya or pineapple. These enzymes work by breaking down dead skin cells on the surface without penetrating deeply, making them ideal for clients with sensitive skin or those new to peels. They provide a light exfoliation and leave the skin feeling refreshed and smooth.
Benefits: Great for sensitive skin, safe for regular use, and offers a mild yet noticeable glow. Usually safe for at-home use.
2. Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA) Peels
AHAs like glycolic, lactic, and mandelic acid are popular choices for addressing surface-level concerns such as dullness and uneven texture. Glycolic acid, derived from sugar cane, has the smallest molecular size, allowing it to penetrate deeper than other AHAs. Lactic acid, made from milk, is gentler and ideal for those with sensitive or dry skin.
Benefits: Brightens skin tone, smooths fine lines, and hydrates while providing a deep exfoliation. Some can be safe for at-home use under the guidance of a licensed esthetician.
3. Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA) Peels
Salicylic acid, the most common BHA, is oil-soluble, making it ideal for most acne-prone or oily skin. BHA peels penetrate the pores, helping to dissolve excess sebum and clear out impurities. This type of peel is especially beneficial for clients struggling with blackheads, whiteheads, or acne.
Benefits: Reduces oiliness, prevents breakouts, and smooths out rough texture, all while minimizing pore appearance.
4. TCA Peels
Trichloroacetic acid (TCA) peels are stronger and typically offered at a medium-to-deep strength. These peels are known for their impressive results in treating more advanced skin concerns like sun damage, deeper wrinkles, and acne scarring. TCA works by penetrating deeper layers of the skin, stimulating collagen, and targeting pigmentation.
Benefits: Addresses pigmentation, deeper wrinkles, and acne scars, leaving a refreshed, youthful look.
5. Jessner’s Peel
This blend of lactic acid, salicylic acid, and resorcinol is known for targeting hyperpigmentation and acne. Jessner’s peels are moderate in strength and can be layered to customize the depth of exfoliation based on the client’s needs.
Benefits: Great for hyperpigmentation, acne, and balancing uneven skin tone, leaving the skin clearer and more refined.
6. Retinol Peels
Retinol, a vitamin A derivative, stimulates skin renewal and increases cell turnover. Retinol peels are typically milder, as they work gradually over time, making them ideal for those with sensitive skin who still want to see significant anti-aging benefits.
Benefits: Smooths fine lines, reduces pigmentation, and improves skin elasticity for a more youthful look. Some can be safe for at-home use under the guidance of a licensed esthetician.
Safe At-Home Peel Options
For those in-between visits or looking to maintain their glow at home, there are safe, lower-strength at-home peel options for clients' use. These peels can be a wonderful way to extend the results of a professional peel and continue improving the skin’s texture and tone.
One great option is Glo Skin Beauty's at home peel kits, which offer an effective yet gentle exfoliation without the same downtime of professional treatments. With ingredients like AHAs and enzymes, it’s designed to work with your skin to keep it looking radiant and refined. Always remember to follow product instructions closely, and don’t overdo it—less is more with at-home peels.
Shira Esthetics also has some lovely enzymes and exfoliating masks, many of which are organic and very safe for at-home client use.
"I highly recommend that you do NOT try peels or enzyme treatments at home UNLESS you are currently on a regular, good skincare routine from a professional skincare line AND regularly seeing or under the care of a licensed esthetician." - Tara Gehrkin, LE
Wrapping Up
Professional peels are a powerful way to rejuvenate the skin, with options that can be customized to your specific skin type and concerns. By understanding what each type of peel offers, you and your esthetician can craft a plan that leaves your skin feeling and looking its best. And if you’re looking for a way to maintain that glow between visits, ask your esthetician if incorporating a safe, professional at-home peel option into your routine is right for you.
Always consult with a licensed esthetician (like the team here at Relevé Aesthetics!) to find the best peel for your skin type and goals. After all, every face is beautiful and unique, and we’re here to help you understand and love the skin you're in!