Understanding Acne: A Basic Guide
As a licensed esthetician, one of the most common concerns I hear about is acne. Whether it's occasional breakouts or a more persistent issue, acne can be frustrating and often impacts both confidence and comfort. Let’s walk through what acne really is, how it forms, what treatments are available, and how to approach it safely.
Table of Contents
What is Acne?
How it happens
Acne is a chronic inflammatory skin condition that begins in the hair follicle and sebaceous (oil) gland. It results when excess oil, dead skin cells, and bacteria clog pores, leading to blackheads, whiteheads, papules, pustules, and sometimes deep cystic lesions. It can affect individuals of all ages and skin types.
RECOMMENDED ACNE KIT
- A gentle, creamy raspberry cleanser ideal for acne-prone skin.
- A clarifying toner that removes impurities deep down in the pores and refreshes skin.
- A cucumber hydrating toner that is non-comedogenic and ideal for all skin types.
- An award-winning acne spot treatment with both glycolic and salicylic acid.
- A light and breathable aloe gel-based hydrator that is perfect for oily skin types and acne-prone skin.
Types and Grades of Acne
Skin professionals categorize acne into four grades:
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Grade 1: Comedonal Acne
Primarily blackheads and whiteheads with minimal inflammation.
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Grade 2: Mild Inflammatory Acne
Includes more papules and pustules along with comedones.
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Grade 3: Moderate Acne
Characterized by frequent breakouts and more widespread inflammation.
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Grade 4: Severe or Cystic Acne
Involves deep, painful nodules and cysts. Scarring can occur if not professionally treated or using the appropriate homecare under the professional guidance of a qualified esthetician or dermatologist.
Treating Acne While Pregnant or Nursing
Ingredients to Avoid
Retin-A and all retinoids (tretinoin, adapalene)
Products containing salicylic acid
Chemical peels
AHAs (Glycolic, Lactic, and other alpha-hydroxy acids)
hydroquinone
Most acne spot-treatments
Most essential oils
Pregnancy-Safe Alternatives
Vitamin C is a natural and safe antioxidant and skin brightener. (Ask doctor about percentage.)
Enzyme-based exfoliants offer gentle exfoliation. (Ask doctor first.)
LED light therapy is often a safe professional treatment option. (Ask doctor first.)
Low-strength benzoyl peroxide can be used under professional supervision. (Ask doctor first.)
Gentle and low-setting microdermabrasion administered by a qualified skincare professional. (Ask doctor first.)
Always be sure to ask your doctor about ANY products, ingredients, modalities or treatments that you are unsure of or have questions about before use while pregnant or nursing.
"Working with an esthetician familiar with pregnancy-safe protocols for acne can ensure you get results without compromising safety."
What Really Causes Acne?
There are four major contributors:
- Hormonal fluctuations: Androgen hormones increase oil production, often peaking during puberty, menstruation, or stress.
- Follicular hyperkeratinization: Dead skin cells accumulate and clog pores.
- Bacterial overgrowth: C. acnes bacteria multiply in blocked follicles and trigger inflammation.
- Genetics: Family history can affect oil production and inflammation response.
How Professional Treatments Help
Working with a licensed esthetician gives you personalized care, targeted products, and ongoing support. Typical acne treatments may include:
- Professional skin analysis: To evaluate your acne grade, skin type, and sensitivity which paves the way for a customized and effective at-home regimen.
- Extractions: Removing blackheads and clogged pores safely without spreading bacteria that would cause even more breakouts.
- Targeted ingredients: Acne-focused skincare treatments and facials containing AHAs (such as glycolic, lactic, mandelic acid, etc), benzoyl peroxide, sulfur, BHAs (salicylic acid), chemical peels, and/or gentle enzymes depending on skin's needs.
- Specialized treatments: Examples include microdermabrasion (mild acne only), HydraFacials, oxygen facials, High Frequency (HF), and others.
- Soothing modalities: Including LED light therapy, calming masks, lymphatic drainage massage, cool compresses and ice globes, etc., help to reduce inflammation.
Why See an Esthetician?
A licensed esthetician provides more than just treatments—they offer personalized guidance tailored to your unique skin:
- Accurate skin analysis and acne grading
- Customized product recommendations
- Professional extractions that minimize damage and scarring
- Support through flare-ups and hormonal changes
- Coordination with medical providers when needed
Your esthetician becomes your partner in achieving and maintaining clear, healthy skin.
Home Care Essentials
Building a Solid Routine
Building a consistent and effective home care routine is key to managing acne and maintaining clear skin. Here’s a solid regimen to consider:
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Gentle, primary cleanser
Choose a cleanser that removes dirt and oil without disrupting your skin’s natural barrier. Avoid harsh scrubs or anything that leaves your skin feeling tight or dry. -
Toner (optional but helpful)
A gentle toner can help balance skin’s pH and provide extra cleansing. Look for alcohol-free formulas with soothing ingredients like witch hazel or chamomile. -
Exfoliant
Incorporate a gentle chemical exfoliant such as mandelic acid or salicylic acid (if tolerated) to help unclog pores and encourage cell turnover. -
Serum
Treat your skin with a non-comedogenic, hydrating serum to help keep your skin's protective barrier in optimal condition so as not to exacerbate and encourage further breakouts. -
Non-comedogenic moisturizer
Hydration is essential, even for oily or acne-prone skin. Select a lightweight, oil-free moisturizer that won’t clog pores or feel heavy. -
Spot treatment
Use targeted treatments with ingredients like benzoyl peroxide, glycolic acid, or sulfur to reduce inflammation and bacteria on active blemishes. Apply sparingly to avoid irritation. -
Broad-spectrum SPF 30+
Sun protection is vital, especially when using acne treatments that increase sensitivity. Mineral-based sunscreens with zinc oxide or titanium dioxide and non-comedongenic ingredients are excellent choices for sensitive or acne-prone skin.
Consistency is key
Results typically take 6 to 12 weeks, so patience and adherence to your routine, as well as guidance from a skincare professional, are all important. Be sure to check in with your esthetician and be open to adjusting your at-home regimen, if advised to do so.
RECOMMENDED PRODUCTS
Additional Tips
Hands off
Although tempting, touching or messing with acne pustules or pimples will potentially cause bacteria on and under the skin to spread, causing more breakouts. Always wash your hands before touching your face and be mindful of the following:
- Avoid picking or squeezing blemishes.
- Change pillowcases regularly.
- Keep hair and hands away from your face to reduce bacteria transfer.
- Use clean makeup tools and choose non-comedogenic makeup products.
Pro Tip: Be sure to change out makeup regularly, wash your hands before applying, and use clean and new sponges, poofs, and applicators. Throw away disposable items and do not reuse!
Common Misconceptions About Acne
"Acne is caused by dirty skin." Over-cleansing can actually compromise your skin barrier and make breakouts worse.
"Greasy foods and chocolate cause acne." There may be links between diet and acne, but it’s more about internal inflammation than isolated foods.
"Tanning improves acne." UV exposure may temporarily dry pimples but often worsens inflammation and leads to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
"Popping pimples helps." Improper extractions can lead to scarring and infection. Leave it to the professionals.
“A solid home-care routine under the guidance of a qualified skincare professional is the cornerstone of effective skincare.”
Conclusion
A consistent at-home skincare routine is more than just a series of actions; it's an investment in your skin's health and your overall well-being. Acne can be challenging, but with the right combination of professional guidance and a well-designed home care regimen, it’s manageable. Safe, effective products and treatments, tailored to your skin’s needs and life stage, can make all the difference.
Consulting a licensed esthetician nearby and local to you will give you access to regular professional monthly treatments as well as help to build a skincare routine that supports your skin’s health and your confidence.
Or if you would prefer professional skincare help online, whether you have a skincare question for an esthetician or would like an online consultation via email, feel free to reach out to us here at Relevé Aesthetics. We are more than happy to serve you... and your skin! 😊
Remember, skincare is a personal journey:
Get a customized routine: Be open to adjusting products and techniques based on your skin type, concerns, and how your skin responds over time.
Be patient: Skin renewal takes time, especially when dealing with acne. Give new products at least 4-6 weeks to show results before making changes. And be sure to keep your esthetician updated on how things are going.
Stay consistent: The key to seeing real improvements and lasting results is partnering with a certified skincare professional who can help guide you and daily dedication to your customized skincare routine.
The Author : Tara Gehrkin, LE
Tara Gehrkin is a Tampa-based Florida Facial Specialist and has been a Licensed Esthetician since 2007. A wife and mother of two, she co-founded the online professional skincare boutique, Relevé Aesthetics LLC, and serves as the Lead Esthetician and Creative Director. Originally from Louisiana, Tara has worked in various salons and spas in the New Orleans area and specializes in customized skincare treatments, facials, and waxing.
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